New Laptop

CPU: Intel Core i9-9900KS 4 GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition 42 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit
Total: $2086

Nice rig for graphic modeling and cad...
Still prefer Intel but Ryzen is overtaking ...
Will see if AMD can maintain...
Will add on but this is the primary install plenty of room for more drives as needed...

I just built a new machine earlier this month and wanted something with a little more horse power because I do some video editing and wanted something that would render HD and 4K faster. I've always had good luck with Asus MBs and wanted to try AMD's RYZEN 7 3700X CPU with Asus's X570 MB which has AMD's chipset with the latest Architecture for the new Ryzen 7 CPU's.So far very impressed with Multi core Ryzen 7 3700X. Hope it holds up. Here's my parts list invoice from Micro Center. It has some items that are not part of my build but shows what I put into the machine.

Yep, just shows how all us "black rock burners" are know-nuthin knuckle-draggers. LOL!

FYI. Check out Adata's sx8200 1tb for nvme x4 systems. Save some bucks for blistering performance

Works nice in a sub-$500 laptop i7-8550u, UHD touchscreen, discrete video card, 16GB 2400 ram. 'Open box' and has cooling issues before I tweak them (ie change oem 3.18cfm fan to 4.75cfm, same form factor, same amps, repaste with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut) and replace the drive.

Video is only nvidia 940mx, which can be a dog un-optimized, but does quite well for a laptop. Really needs cooling tweaks for high usage. Considering adding small 2 wire fan to the 4 wire in parallel. Adding a very low amp mini-fan can work wonders, especially with sintered heat pipe systems.

One thing that slows them down is a lot of crap running in the background eating resources. Shut off or delete the things you don't use regularly and they speed up nicely.

Always remember: "Microsoft is arrogant and will *tell you* what you want" and "Google wants to know and control everything about you, all the time"

To that end, here are some easy tips to speed up Win 10.

1. Ctrl-Shift-Esc for task manager, go to Startup tab. Disable Onedrive.

2. Hit windows key, search for 'background apps' Turn them all off

3. Open Chrome. Settings, Advanced.
a. Preload pages- off
b. Continue running background apps - off

4. If using SSD, turn off SysMain service

5. Install AVG free (if home computer). Disable AVG Secure brower, disable Web Shield, disable cleanup. (MS Defender will move out of the way, it is VERY SLOW)

6. Add Malwarebytes free (if home computer). Like AVG, the paid versions are 'too heavy' and drag down system performance.

Bang, 10-30% increase from just those few things. The difference should be noticeable upon reboot.

Consider upgrading to SSD drive. They are pretty cheap these days.

In task manager you can look at performance tab and see if it is amount of memory, Processor, or disk drive that is the anchor. Memory is easily upgraded, disk drive intermediate (maybe difficult on some laptops) with cloning or reinstall necessary.

I have no performance complaints about Win 10. It runs well on the laptop, and flies on my I7 desktop.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Mon. Dec. 16, 2019 8:22 am

I have no performance complaints about Win 10. It runs well on the laptop, and flies on my I7 desktop.

Take care of those steps I listed above. You will be pleasantly surprised.

BTW, Win 10 is pretty efficient once you kill or move their junk out of the way. Best OS for driver support in MS history.

I just had the FIRST system get messed up a few days ago. The BIOS version vs the Win 10 BIOS driver got out of sync somehow. Maybe because I skipped ahead to the latest version of each, plus Win 10 from 1703 to 1909. No middle-man junk and waste of time, LOL.

These were on two refurbs I just sold. Only one had a problem, which was a as simply as manually updating the actual BIOS first, then updating the Win 10 side. Hardly ever get this kind of stuff with UEFI...

I'm building a pseudo-server for small company using RAID 1 EVO SSDs.... *IF* the RAID card arrives tomorrow as expected.

Always look for the dead weight and remove the anchors...

Also there can be problems when buying a new machine from mainline suppliers like Dell or HP that have win 10 preloaded. They bloat the machine with so much junkware that it really slows things down. I bought an off lease Dell Laptop a few years back that they had put win 10 and all of the bloatware on it. It was a real dog. I finally got fed up with it and F disked it and installed Linux Mint and it is now a decent machine. When I built my video machine last month I was reluctant to put win 10 on it but my video editing software is windows based. I could of made it a dual boot machine but decided to give win 10 another install. If you carefully install the OS without falling into traps that they try to get you into when installing then you can come up with a decent install. I'm happy with the OS now.

Just my thoughts from a crazy old black rock burner.

CoalisCoolxWarm wrote: ↑

Mon. Dec. 16, 2019 1:03 pm

Take care of those steps I listed above. You will be pleasantly surprised.

I have been at this a while also - did some of the things you suggested right after the install. Both machines got a fresh install off the MS Disc rather than the Dell/HP image with bloatware.

I was not aware of the Chrome browser tweak. Checked mine and the preload option was already off.

Use Brave, it's Chrome with a built in ad blocker. Works like a charm.

Well the "new" laptop I purchased in 2018 has officially died. I thought it was the touchpad failing, but seems to be something with the motherboard. I am done messing with it.

The good news is that my "old" laptop from 2011 has answered the call to duty. For the last two years it has sat in the kids room rarely used. I had already installed an SSD drive when I demoted it to the kids, but I decided to bump up the ram and give it another try as our main machine. Wow - what a difference going from 4gb to 8gb of ram makes with Windows 10. If I had done that two years ago I never would have purchased the other laptop.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Sat. Aug. 01, 2020 7:43 am

Well the "new" laptop I purchased in 2018 has officially died. I thought it was the touchpad failing, but seems to be something with the motherboard. I am done messing with it.

Bummer. Your "new" one was a refurbished HP, wasn't it? The additional 4gb of RAM was a good idea for your old machine. My Dell, circa 2013, runs Windows 7 pretty well with 6gb, but probably would be happier with 8. SSD made a big difference when I put it in. I live in dread that it will just stop working one day. I do frequent backups of my data, but there would be many hours work just getting applications reinstalled.

Next big issue is whether to install Windows 10 on this machine. TurboTax keeps reminding me it won't function next tax season with W7. Probably makes more sense to spend some of that Coronavirus Cash on a new laptop with W10 already installed, but the cheapskate in me hates to retire a perfectly good machine.

rberq wrote: ↑

Sat. Aug. 01, 2020 9:37 am

Bummer. Your "new" one was a refurbished HP, wasn't it?

Yes. It looked brand new and had a fresh install of Windows 10 on it, but we had our share of issues with it. Whatever it is wrong with it might be simple, but I am done messing with it. I also really missed the numberpad from our previous unit.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Sat. Aug. 01, 2020 12:30 pm

I also really missed the numberpad from our previous unit.

I'm glad you mentioned that. I use that extra number pad a LOT. I'd really kick myself if I ordered a new laptop and forgot to make sure it had one.

rberq wrote: ↑

Sat. Aug. 01, 2020 9:37 am

Bummer. Your "new" one was a refurbished HP, wasn't it? The additional 4gb of RAM was a good idea for your old machine. My Dell, circa 2013, runs Windows 7 pretty well with 6gb, but probably would be happier with 8. SSD made a big difference when I put it in. I live in dread that it will just stop working one day. I do frequent backups of my data, but there would be many hours work just getting applications reinstalled.

Next big issue is whether to install Windows 10 on this machine. TurboTax keeps reminding me it won't function next tax season with W7. Probably makes more sense to spend some of that Coronavirus Cash on a new laptop with W10 already installed, but the cheapskate in me hates to retire a perfectly good machine.

Do an image of your drive...
It is like a photocopy...
If it is going back on the same computer bam its done...
If it is going back on a similar generation Dell should go back pretty easy a few drivers...
That 2013 dell can go up to Win10 for free..
If it has a legal copy of W7 you are good to go...